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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

Jul 9, 2015

Date: July 9th, 2015

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About Kevin Jorgeson

After the Dawn Wall, Kevin Jorgeson needs no introduction really. Even my grandmother knows his name (and I'm not joking about that). Before the Dawn Wall, I knew Kevin for his highball bouldering; I knew him as a bold, strong-headed climber. After his send of Ambrosia (55-ft V11 in Bishop), he wanted something different to challenge him, so he called up Tommy Caldwell and asked him if he needed a partner for the Dawn Wall.

What We Talked About

In this conversation, Kevin tells me his own Dawn Wall story, how he fought through the challenges and ultimately succeeded, how he trained for it, and what's next.

  • Which key pieces fell into place to let him send the Dawn Wall
  • The media blow-up about the Dawn Wall
  • How he skipped 14b & c and jumped to sending 14d
  • Why pitch 15 was so hard for him
  • How he dealt with the immense pressure up there
  • Specific training he did for the Dawn Wall
  • Why he switched from highballing to bigwalling

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