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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

Nov 4, 2015

TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes 
Date: November 4th, 2015

armaid

(Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.)

About Will Anglin

 

Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also a prolific climber himself, having sent V13 and 5.14.

He has a lot to say about training, and this was a dense conversation (in the best way possible).

What we talked about:

  • The importance of strength training
  • Difference between strength and power
  • His weekly training schedule during 50-60 hour work weeks
  • Whether or not you should train to exhaustion
  • Why he thinks using a weight vest during campusing is "safer" than not
  • Who should be campusing
  • Why he does weighted pull ups and why you should maybe not

Things We Mentioned

Discount on ArmAid

armAid1If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works.

We wrote a glowing review about it here.  Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount!

 

Training Programs for You

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  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

Photo Credit

Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon Cardwell.

Thanks for listening!