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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

Jun 16, 2016

How to Use A Heart Rate Monitor for Training and How to Increase Your Lactic Acid Threshold

This week, in our eighth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about two related topics: lactic acid thresholds and heart rate monitor training. Lactic acid is basically the stuff that builds up in your body to make you feel "pumped", and it comes partially from having a high heart rate during activity. 

In terms of lactic acid, we talk about:

  • how you can increase your lactic acid threshold
  • how a climber might test their lactic acid threshold just like runners do
  • what to do with that information
  • and how to decrease the lactic acid build-up while you're climbing 

One of the big ways to decrease lactic acid build-up while you're climbing is to decrease your heart rate while you're climbing, and one way to train that is with a heart rate monitor.

Regarding training with a heart rate monitor, we talk about:

  • how to train with a heart rate monitor
  • at what level of your max heart rate you should be training
  • what kinds of workouts you can do to train at difference percentages of your max
  • how monitoring your heart rate helps you avoid overtraining

This was one of my favorite talks with Kris because it's one of the few training tactics in climbing that are completely numbers-based and easily tracked and monitored. I hope you get something out of this one! I'm looking into getting a heart rate monitor right now myself...

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