Preview Mode Links will not work in preview mode

Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

May 3, 2014

This interview is with Kris Hampton, a climber, trainer, artist, business owner, and all around great guy. I met him last fall at his home crag, the Red River Gorge, when we both had projects in the Motherlode (I was on Snooker and he was on Transworld Depravity). 

He's a super chill, obviously smart guy, and we were quick friends. It wasn't long 'til he was writing the 8-Week Endurance Training Program for TrainingBeta (here), and we were discussing all the ways we wanted to improve the online availability of climbing training advice. 

As a climber, he started out as a trad guy and then years later switched over to sport, early in his 30's. He quickly realized that if he was going to keep up and meet his own personal climbing goals, he'd have to get strategic about his training, especially because he's so busy with life outside of climbing. So he learned as much as he could about training tactics, and quickly took himself from a 5.11 climber to a solid 5.13 climber, now on his way to hopefully sending his first 5.14a. 

He represents those people who do NOT climb full time, who do not live on the road. He speaks for and to those climbers who only have a couple days a week to crush it outside (if that), and need to make the most of their time out there, which he does himself handily. 

What We Talked About

  • How and why he learned so much about training
  • Life as a rap artist, and his new album
  • Having a real job and a real life and still training and climbing hard
  • Why he gave up offwidth and crack climbing and started sport climbing 
  • His current 5.14a project
  • How he approaches new training clients
  • All about the 8-Week Endurance Training Program he wrote for TrainingBeta

Related Links

Support The Podcast

  • This podcast is made possible by the training programs on TrainingBeta here. Check 'em out if you need some help sending!
  • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at