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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

Apr 28, 2015

About Eric Hörst

Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the first books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12Training for Climbing, and Maximum Climbing. He's a 50-year old climber who still climbs as hard as ever (5.13 redpoints) due to his smart training methods, which he's catered to himself to fit his mature body. His 2 boys are living proof of his training methods, regularly climbing 5.14's by the time they were each 11 years old. Eric keeps an active blog on training for climbing, aptly named He also writes regularly for

What we talked about:

  • How to most efficiently train for different kinds of climbing
  • How his training has evolved over the years, and how he learned so much about it
  • Whether or not we should run to train for routes (the burning question)
  • How his kids train for climbing, and how they've become such balanced athletes
  • When to train and when to climb, and how to not overdo it

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Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 

Thanks for listening!