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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

May 20, 2015

frictionlabs chalk

About Alex Puccio

Alex "The Pucc" Puccio is the strongest female American boulderer, and the most accomplished female American bouldering competitor. She's won ABS Nationals 9 times, and has medaled 13 times in Bouldering World Cup events since 2009. Her goal this year is to be the overall IFSC World Cup Bouldering champ and to climb V15.

She was the 4th woman to climb V14 (Jade and then Wheel of Chaos in Rocky Mountain), she's climbed 7 V13's, and she's done all of this in the past year. Naturally, I wanted to know how she went from climbing V12 to crushing V14 in such a short amount of time, so we talked all about how her training, diet, and mental game have changed recently.

What We Talked About

  • Exactly how she trains on a weekly basis
  • Exactly how Justen Sjong is helping her improve her mental game
  • Why she doesn't have enough sponsor money, and what she's doing about it
  • How she lost weight, and whether or not she's anorexic
  • What she thinks about performance enhancing drugs
  • Lots more - she's very honest and open

Links We Mentioned

Discount on The Best Chalk Ever

Alex Puccio loves FrictionLabs chalk, and so do we. This chalk really does make a difference - it's no joke. Go to for a special discount to try it out for yourself.

Training Programs for You

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  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
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Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 

Thanks for listening!