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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

Aug 12, 2015

Direct Download: LINK
Date: August 12th, 2015



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About Jon Cardwell


Jon Cardwell is a 26 year-old Albuquerque native living in Boulder, Colorado, who climbs 5.14d and V15, along with being one of the top male bouldering competitors in the U.S. He's a sponsored climber and also holds jobs as a route setter and youth climbing coach at Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder.

I've been hearing all about him crushing Rifle and the Fortress this year, so we sat down and talked about how he trains for that, what he's psyched on right now, and his plans to go back to France this year and finally do Biographie. He's a super humble, sweet and well-spoken guy, and I really enjoyed this conversation with him.

What we talked about:

  • How he trained for The Game (V15)
  • How he trains for hard routes
  • His attempt at Biographie (5.15a) this spring, and what he'll do differently next trip
  • His successful Rifle season this year, including 5.14a onsights
  • His unconventional use of the hangboard and campus board
  • How he gives back as a coach
  • His thoughts on diet

Things We Mentioned

Discount on ArmAid

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We wrote a glowing review about it here.  Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount!


Training Programs for You

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  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
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Photo Credit

Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon!

Thanks for listening!