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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

Nov 11, 2015

About Justen Sjong

Justen Sjong is a prolific climbing coach out of Colorado, who's also had a successful climbing career, having established up to 5.14a big walls with none other than Tommy Caldwell, and crushing 5.14 sport climbs across the globe. He currently works out of Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder and does online coaching via He has a thing or two to say about climbers improving their mental game and becoming better climbers overall. 

What We Talked About

  • The difference between a climbing coach and a climbing trainer
  • When to say "take" on routes
  • How he coaches Alex Puccio
  • How to increase confidence, and why it's important
  • How your body language can influence your climbing performance
  • Lots more

Related Links

Training Programs for You

FrictionLabs Discount

FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot!

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!

  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

Photo Credit

Andrew Burr Photography

Thanks for listening!