Jun 9, 2021
UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program.
In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research. By utilizing various testing he has discovered that our hand size and ability to recover can be a factor in which protocols are likely to work best. He also answers a lot of commonly asked questions and gives his opinion on various topics around hangboarding and more.
Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you:
Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.
You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.
This is my first interaction with Tyler, apart from listening to all his other podcasts with a pen and notepad. His ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I couldn’t have been more psyched to have the opportunity to ask him a ton of questions. While I am new to the podcast you could say Tyler is a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.
Other Episodes with Tyler
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…