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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

Jul 29, 2021

About Matt Pincus

Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017.

Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gain strength, power, skills, and work capacity. There’s also a maintenance block worked into the program so you can continue to train lightly during your performance phases.

Learn More about the Bouldering Program Here


8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase

In the episode, Coach Matt and I discuss our top 8 tips for having a successful performance phase, whether that’s a climbing trip, a good weather season at your home crag, or a period of time in the gym when you’re just trying to send hard stuff.

These tips are a mixture of advice for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers, so everyone should get something out of it.

At the end of this episode I included a preview of a recent Q&A episode that Matt, Alex, and I did over on Patreon.

If you’d like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and Team Talks with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content.


Episode Details

  • What is a performance phase?
  • Matt’s 3 tips
    • HAVE a performance phase
    • Be ready to put the work in
    • Do prep work away from the crag to maximize your climbing days
  • My 5 tips (it was supposed to be 3, but I couldn’t help myself)
    • Prioritize rest on a macro and micro level
    • Fuel properly on climbing and rest days
    • Balance mental health with sending
    • Plan your goals, trips, and partners way in advance
    • Redpointing tactics

Show Links


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Photo Credit

Photo of Dru Mack by Matt Pincus @mpincus87