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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

Mar 30, 2022

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus discusses the common issue of not having the energy to execute a programmed session. I’m sure you’ve been at the gym with the intention of projecting routes or doing some limit bouldering, only to find that you can hardly get off the ground on your warm-ups. Whether you have a training program written by another coach or by yourself, Matt goes over some alternative plans for limit bouldering sessions, strength sessions (outside of climbing), and volume/endurance sessions.

You don’t have to scrap the whole session (unless you really need to do that). You can make the most out of a crappy day by lowering intensity or working on skills, for instance. We go over it in detail so you can easily make a plan B next time this happens to you.


Episode Details

  • Why it’s normal for not every session to feel great
  • Acceptable choices for what to do instead
  • Limit bouldering alternatives
  • Strength training alternatives
  • Volume climbing alternatives
  • Why an endurance session may not be a good alternative to limit bouldering
  • Why you feel bad some days, and how to avoid it more
  • Figuring out the “why” of your session to make a plan B
  • How to practice skill instead of strength
  • Why it’s a mistake to blow off strength sessions
  • Why doing even 60% of max efforts helps gain strength

Train with Matt

Coach Matt Pincus provides training plans to climbers of all levels from anywhere in the world. If you need help with your climbing strength, power, mental game, skills, or tactics, Matt can help you. He will sit down with you over zoom to find out your goals, your available equipment, and time restrictions and then create a month-long plan for you on the True Coach app.

You’ll have access to Matt via email and the app for however long you work with him. He also offers one-hour consultations if you just want a few questions answered or to help you build your own training program. Find out more at the link below.


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