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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

Apr 6, 2022

6-Week Team Training Program Starts April 18th

On April 18th, Coach Alex Stiger’s 4th cohort of her Team program will begin!

This is a group training program that ALSO provides you with a training program built just for you. You’ll be getting to know a small group of no more than 12 people, talking with them every week. You’ll get a lot of one-on-one time with Alex, and you’ll also get everything below…

  • More one-on-one time – 2.5 hours instead of 1.75 hours over the 6 weeks (that’s more one-on-one time than any other coaching option)
  • Team zoom meetings every week that will be recorded – get climbing video analyzed, ask questions, go over specific topics
  • Completely individualized 6-week training program for just you
  • Intensive 6-week online course – video tutorials, deep dives into important training and mental topics to help you improve quickly
  • Anytime Q&A via individual messaging or group chat
  • Weekly feedback on climbing and training videos you take during the course
  • Direction on how to continue with your training after the course
  • Full access to Alex’s past workshops during the program (Hangboarding, TRX, Rings, and Skills & Drills Workshops)
  • Learn and grow with a team! This is an underrated way of reaching your potential. Teammates can be the difference between you doing the work and you keeping the status quo.

Early bird pricing lasts until the 13th, so if you want to get this at the best price, go get your spot now.


Coach Alex Stiger’s Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she’s training to prepare to send her first 5.14a this summer/fall. This is a rare exploration of an experienced coach/climber’s process around building their own training program.

Alex has asked for the help of a couple trainers, a PT, and she’s doing work on her mental game as well in order to achieve this big goal. She’s taken everything she knows about training to build out an objective plan for herself for 8 weeks before she begins going to her project.

We talk about how she assessed her strengths and weaknesses in order to prioritize what she’s doing to train. We talk about how she’s cultivating a beginner’s mindset, why she incorporated running into her program, and how she uses journaling and video of herself climbing to take a more objective view of things.

She also shares her schedule from Monday to Sunday every day so you can see exactly what she’s doing.

This program is specifically built for Alex, and you should not copy it. But we go through how she KNEW what was appropriate for her, and you can take that knowledge to help build your own program.


Episode Details

  • Why this climb is so important for her, and why she’s ok with walking away empty-handed
  • Why chilling and doing what she wants has been an important part of this training
  • How she uses journaling, tracking, and vieo analysis
  • How she assessed her strengths and weaknesses to build her program
  • Importance of guidance on training, even for a coach
  • Why she used to hate assessments and why she loves them now
  • Her Monday through Sunday training schedule for 8 weeks before the season
  • How/if she’ll train while she’s trying to send
  • How to use video analysis in your own training

Photo Credit

Photo of Alex competing in the Cookie Jar Competition at Movement Boulder by Michael Emery Hecker @sayless.meanmore


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