Apr 27, 2022
In this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do if a youth climber has a finger injury.
Once again, Tyler pored over the research and is sharing this information with us so that youth coaches and parents are better equipped to understand these injuries and avoid permanent damage to their kids.
Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you:
Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.
You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.
Other Episodes with Tyler
- TBP 168: New Insights on Finger Training
- TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers
- TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training
- TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing
- TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
- TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
- TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body
- TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance
- TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing
- TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries
- TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol
Tyler Nelson Interview Details
- What the most common youth injuries are
- Why youth injuries can be confusing
- Most common age to get injured
- Risk factors for youth injuries
- How to properly diagnose A2 pulley vs. stress response injury
- Who to see about these injuries
- How to mitigate risk factors
- What it means to “spin your wheels” on the wall
Tyler Nelson Links
- Climbing Wall Association Summit where Tyler will be presenting
- Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com
- Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store
- Do a consultation with Tyler
- Instagram: @c4hp
- Facebook: @camp4chiropractic
Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.
Training Programs for You
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…
- At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid
- Personal Training Online: www.trainingbeta.com/coaching
- For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities
- For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities
- Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers
- All of our training programs: Training Programs Page
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.