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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

Jan 20, 2021

About Eric Hörst

In this episode, I talk to Eric Hörst about how older climbers (over 35) can change their training to avoid injury and fatigue while still being as strong as ever. Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the most popular books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12Training for Climbing, and Maximum Climbing. He’s a climber in his 50’s who still climbs as hard as ever (5.13 redpoints) due to his smart training methods, which he’s catered to himself to fit his mature body.

His 2 sons are living proof of his training methods, regularly climbing 5.14’s by the time they were each 11 years old. Eric keeps an active blog on training for climbing, aptly named He also runs the company Physivantage, which sells supplements for athletes.

My New Puppy  

I said I would put a photo up of our new puppy (we don’t have her yet) and here she is! She’s a heeler/border collie mix, just like our other dog. We get her in three weeks and we are SO EXCITED!


Eric Hörst Interview Details

  • How to support recovery
  • How to train when you’re over the age of 35
  • Physiological changes that happen as you age
  • How to slow the aging process
  • How to know if you’re training too much
  • Why you shouldn’t be sore every day
  • The importance of sleep
  • Bloodwork to consider
  • Why your ability to recover declines

Eric Hörst Links


Rock Climbing Training Programs 

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta…