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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

Dec 15, 2021

About Matt Pincus

Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He’s currently taking new clients, so if you’d like to work with him, you can sign up here.

Matt just started offering 1-hour remote coaching sessions so you can get your training questions answered and have guidance on how to build out a training program for yourself. Consider this offering as a gift for the climbers in your life, or for yourself if you’re not ready to commit to a coach full-time.

>>>Get an Hour of Coaching with Matt


Rest – How Much Is Too Much and How to Navigate the Holidays

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I talk about rest. We’ve been getting a lot of questions from our clients who are scared to take off any time from climbing over the holidays for fear that they’ll lose all of the gains they’ve worked so hard for.

Matt describes 3 client scenarios with different circumstances and the guidance he gave about rest:

  1. A person who just came off a performance cycle and is a little tweaky and is going home to visit family for a week.
  2. A person who has a climbing trip coming up 2 weeks after a trip home to visit family for a week.
  3. A person who doesn’t have a climbing trip coming up and is going home to visit family for 10 days.

We give our own anecdotal stories about whether or not resting has hurt or helped us in the past, and we talk about professional climbers’ use of long and short rest periods.

We also discuss what the research says about how long it takes to actually lose strength and endurance during taper and off-season periods in other sports.



Episode Details

  • My story about sending after 5 days completely off
  • How Matt is guiding his clients during the holidays
  • Expectations for when you come back from a full rest period
  • What to do if you really want to keep training while you’re on vacation and only have minimal equipment
  • What the research says about how much rest it takes to see declines in performance

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Photo Credit

Photo of Adam Peters on Make It A Double by Matt Pincus @mpincus87