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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

Dec 14, 2022

In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there’s a growing need for us all to be on the same page about who gets to climb when, how to communicate with each other, and what our expectations are of each other in general.

This conversation’s purpose is to bring some difficult topics into the light and hopefully to help climbers understand each other better, have more tools to use with each other in sticky situations, and to–more than anything–help us all have an amazing and safe time climbing outside with each other.

Here’s what we talked about:

Communication

a. Who’s climbing when
b. For how long
c. Permission to join bouldering crew
d. Brush holds
e. Beta sharing desires
f. Encouragement desires

Taking up space

a. Yard sale
b. Loud conversations
c. Taking long time to get ready when there’s a queue
d. Talking to belayers

Impact on others

a. Smoking
b. Music
c. Screaming performatively on climbs
d. Wobbling
e. Yelling at ppl for waiting for a route you’re currently on
f. Dogs

I hope this conversation sparks conversations of your own with your climber friends!