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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

Aug 1, 2021

A while back I asked for questions about training and climbing for an episode that Coach Alex and I did together. Well, we got so many questions that we decided to do an entire episode answering some more of them.

That full Q&A episode can be found on our Patreon page, but today I published half of the episode as a Sneak Preview on the main podcast so you can get some of that good beta, too.

If you’d like to get bonus episodes from TrainingBeta, you can go over to Patreon where you can subscribe for as little as $5/month and get at least 75 minutes of extra stuff EVERY MONTH.

You’ll get a Nutrition Bite, which is a short episode every month from me all about a specific nutrition topic, as well as a Team Roundtable, where Matt, Alex, and I will discuss a specific training/nutrition topic or do a Q&A like this one.

There are also old episodes in the vault that I’ve never published, and I’ll be publishing those on Patreon soon.


Team Q&A: Training and Nutrition

In this sneak preview, we answered the following questions:

  • When to transition from indoor to outdoor climbing
  • When to transition from toproping to lead climbing
  • General nutrition advice for a climber who doesn’t want to log their calories/macros
  • Training adaptations for very short climbers and very tall climbers

The questions we covered in the full episode on Patreon are:

  • Antagonist muscle training and how to work it into your program
  • What a typical performance block looks like in terms of maintenance training and time spent trying to send
  • Performance phase nutrition (for when you’re trying to send stuff)
  • How to avoid takeout food with a very busy schedule