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Neely Quinn interviews pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community about how we can get a little better at rock climbing. Subjects include how to train for certain aspects of the sport, how to rehab injuries, the best diet for climbing, and personal stories about climbing.

Sep 22, 2014


About Alli Rainey

Alli Rainey is a long-time climber and route developer, having put up a ton of routes in Ten Sleep Wyoming and boulder problems in Cody, Wyoming. She's redpointed several 14a's in Ten Sleep and done more than 90 5.13s up to 5.13d all over the world. She got into training for climbing a while back when she realized that she wasn't the greatest at steep powerful climbing (not much of that in Ten Sleep) and needed to train to improve.

Since then, she's studied the art and science of training for climbing (rather than climbing to train for climbing) for herself and her clients, and she's successfully expanded her climbing horizons to steeper stuff. I know - I've seen her at the Motherlode in the Red ;) 

What We Talked About

  • The most important things for climbers to do to get stronger
  • How everyone's needs are different, and how to train your personal weaknesses
  • Diet and body weight's role in sending hard
  • What to do on your off season, and how she's successfully sent hard routes after only climbing on her home wall
  • A lot more

Related Links

Support The Podcast

  • This podcast is made possible by the Training Programs on TrainingBeta. Check 'em out if you need some help sending!
  • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at

Listen and Review on iTunes

  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)


Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 


Thanks for listening!